Starter Issues

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

Shitty cell phone pic



AMA wouldn't even touch my car. Called Chester Towing for a flatbed.

[R_Ethug]

Re: Starter Issues

pwned.. sorry man.. doesn't look like fun but at least you got the proper tow.

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

pwned.. sorry man.. doesn't look like fun but at least you got the proper tow.

Ya, The AMA guy took one look at it and said "im not even going to attempt it" you could here the "those silly kids" tone in his voice.

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

Got it working today
Needs a new starter for sure. Might possible need a new alternater since the one I have isn't charging my battery.
Just my luck to have them both die at the saem time..

[VAG_Tech]

Re: Starter Issues

That's pretty weird. I would charge your battery and try to start it. also check for corrosion on your battery terminals and starter connection. You can do a voltage drop test on your battery cables to to see if they are hooped or not. How do you do a voltage drop? Read below.



Voltage Drop Testing - Overview

*We can test the voltage at the beginning of the wire and compare that voltage with the voltage at the other end of the wire while the circuit is under load (working) to learn if enough current can pass through that part of the circuit.
*The voltage lost due to overcoming resistance in the wire/cable or connection is called "voltage drop".
*Loose or corroded connections and undersized or frayed cable can reduce the amount of current that can flow, resulting in hard starting and low battery.

Voltage Drop Test
Negative (Ground) side of Battery

To measure voltage drop from the battery negative post to the cable connection at the engine block:

1.Set DMM (Digital multi meter) to measure DC Volts (lowest range).
2.Disable ignition or fuel so the engine will crank but not run.
3.Connect the black COM lead probe tip to the negative (-) battery post.
4.Connect the red Volts lead probe tip to the engine block.
5.Observe the meter reading while cranking the engine.

*Reading should not exceed 0.2 volts.

Allow a drop of 0.1 volt for each cable connection.

*A high reading indicates a poor connection.

Poor connections usually respond to a thorough cleaning - poor wires should be replaced.

Hope this helps.

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

That's pretty weird. I would charge your battery and try to start it. also check for corrosion on your battery terminals and starter connection. You can do a voltage drop test on your battery cables to to see if they are hooped or not. How do you do a voltage drop? Read below.



Voltage Drop Testing - Overview

*We can test the voltage at the beginning of the wire and compare that voltage with the voltage at the other end of the wire while the circuit is under load (working) to learn if enough current can pass through that part of the circuit.
*The voltage lost due to overcoming resistance in the wire/cable or connection is called "voltage drop".
*Loose or corroded connections and undersized or frayed cable can reduce the amount of current that can flow, resulting in hard starting and low battery.

Voltage Drop Test
Negative (Ground) side of Battery

To measure voltage drop from the battery negative post to the cable connection at the engine block:

1.Set DMM (Digital multi meter) to measure DC Volts (lowest range).
2.Disable ignition or fuel so the engine will crank but not run.
3.Connect the black COM lead probe tip to the negative (-) battery post.
4.Connect the red Volts lead probe tip to the engine block.
5.Observe the meter reading while cranking the engine.

*Reading should not exceed 0.2 volts.

Allow a drop of 0.1 volt for each cable connection.

*A high reading indicates a poor connection.

Poor connections usually respond to a thorough cleaning - poor wires should be replaced.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info, battery is pretty much bran new and is relocated to the trunk, so no corrosion.
We used a multimeter on it today, didn't check to see if there were drops though. Dan put his battery in and we were able to push start it, mine was at ~9V. We checked the alternater and found that it wasn't giving out a charge, started at 11.8V and slowly drained.

[VAG_Tech]

Re: Starter Issues

Cool, How is or what is the battery ground grounded to? You may want to check there to see if you are getting sufficiant ground.

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

Cool, How is or what is the battery ground grounded to? You may want to check there to see if you are getting sufficiant ground.

Right now its grounded to the rear seatbelt mount.
Found out I need to do some better grounding in the engine bay today too.

[100%VAGitarian]

Re: Starter Issues

we noticed that the batt/charge indicator light does not illuminate when you turn the key on. i believe it supplys voltage to the alternator to start its charging cycle? no lite, no charge? there needs to be a better engine to chassis ground also. thought we'd fix that, go through the voltage drop steps later. being valentines day, had to get going.

hey is there a higher amp alt for the 2.0? currently has 90amp. i thought 120(vr6). does this fit?

[Silverfire]

Re: Starter Issues

hey is there a higher amp alt for the 2.0? currently has 90amp. i thought 120(vr6). does this fit?

ya i have a vr6 120 in my 2.0

think graeme has one on order allready

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

ya i have a vr6 120 in my 2.0

think graeme has one on order allready

Yup, a vr one works. All you need to do is use the pully off the old alternater and your good to go.

And yes, I have one on order.

[VAG_Tech]

Re: Starter Issues

we noticed that the batt/charge indicator light does not illuminate when you turn the key on. i believe it supplys voltage to the alternator to start its charging cycle? no lite, no charge? there needs to be a better engine to chassis ground also. thought we'd fix that, go through the voltage drop steps later. being valentines day, had to get going.

hey is there a higher amp alt for the 2.0? currently has 90amp. i thought 120(vr6). does this fit?

Yeh the light exites the windings. there is a blue wire that goes to the alternator. if you take that off the alternator and gound it with the key on the light should turn on. if it doesn't you need to check wiring that goes to the cluster.

[Triple G]

Re: Starter Issues

Yeh the light exites the windings. there is a blue wire that goes to the alternator. if you take that off the alternator and gound it with the key on the light should turn on. if it doesn't you need to check wiring that goes to the cluster.

What kind of things would cause wiring issues to the cluster. I have changed the lighting in the cluster recently, could I have screwed something up changing the lighting?

[Stonewall]

Re: Starter Issues

The long wire run and the bad grounding might have been enought to kill the alternator and the starter. The resistance across all those points may have dropped the voltage down low enough that they would still work but would draw excessive current therefor heating up and causing premature failure. Make sure you go through all your wirring after you get your new parts installed.

[100%VAGitarian]

Re: Starter Issues

Volkstech:"Yeh the light exites the windings. there is a blue wire that goes to the alternator. if you take that off the alternator and gound it with the key on the light should turn on. if it doesn't you need to check wiring that goes to the cluster."


Stonewall:"The long wire run and the bad grounding might have been enought to kill the alternator and the starter. The resistance across all those points may have dropped the voltage down low enough that they would still work but would draw excessive current therefor heating up and causing premature failure. Make sure you go through all your wirring after you get your new parts installed."





thank you. that was the thought. i know in the mk1/mk2 you need that batt/charge light to come on or else it wont charge. figured mk3 was the same. i believe thoes clusters do have some issues though. we will make sure all wiring contacts/grounds are back up to par. go from there...