Handling Issues

[nonick]

So I'm having a bit of troubles with I think grip on my car. It seems like every time I go over a bump (and even worse when I'm cornering and going over said bumps) the whole car feels like it wants to lose control and spin out.

I'm not sure where the problem lies, I'm assuming its with the tires since it feels like a grip thing, the dealer rated the tires at 5/32nds last time it was in (I don't even know what that means). Also I'm running stock shocks on the drivergear springs. If anyone can let me know where the problem lies so I can fix it that'd be great. Thanks!

[NeonGTI]

Re: Handling Issues

I say it it something along the line of a busted tie rod or a control arm that has deformed.

It won't be cheap.

[FlyBoy]

Re: Handling Issues

The 5/32 is the tread depth remaining in inches. Don't know when the last time was you were in, but I think tires are done when they have 3/32" left, so if it was a while ago, your tires might be done. You could also check the wear bars in the grooves of the tread. If they are no longer in the groove but level with the tread, the tire is done.

A tire shop can tell you for sure in a couple minutes. It is almost time for winters anyways...

Jeff
01 Jetta GLS

[nonick]

Re: Handling Issues

Well it was just in about 2 weeks ago and the tires look allright. I'm sure with my luck it'll be something expensive again.

[nonick]

Re: Handling Issues

Anyone have any other ideas?

[VAG_Tech]

Re: Handling Issues

Sounds like you have worn shocks or struts. Below is a quote from Hearst Business Publishing Sep 2003

Deterioration in ride quality can be difficult to diagnose. A vehicle slowly loses its new-car ride over time as the miles accumulate and steering and suspension parts have a chance to wear. This process is often so gradual that the owner may not even notice anything has changed until things have gotten bad enough to represent a safety hazard. It's your job to spot problems before things go quite that far.

Steering parts may wear, causing the steering to become vague and unresponsive. Suspension parts like ball joints and tie-rod ends may wear, too, causing unfamiliar clunks and bumps as well as uneven tire wear. While these components are certainly very important in their own right, for the most part they aren't responsible for the seat-of-the-pants feel that defines a vehicle's ride quality.

Two suspension parts that are responsible for ride quality are the shocks and struts. Even though they have an important job to do, shocks and struts are often ignored until they scream for replacement. By inspecting the shocks and struts during each scheduled maintenance interval, you'll find more of these components that legitimately need to be replaced, before they're ready to fall off the vehicle. Here are a few pointers for inspecting shocks and struts, in that order.

Shocks
The basic function of the shock absorber is to keep the wheels in contact with the road surface under all road and load conditions. The shock absorber is not a weight-supporting device, and serves only as a damping device for the spring or torsion bar suspension system. The shocks keep the springs from oscillating freely after the wheels roll over road irregularities.

Some common indications of shock absorber failure are steering or handling difficulty, uneven braking, abnormal tire wear (especially cupping), springs bottoming out, excessive bouncing after stops, worn steering and suspension components and noise caused by loose shock absorber attaching parts.

The shock absorber action should be smooth and uniform throughout each stroke. To check the shock on the vehicle, support the lower control arm or axle and remove the shock's lower attachment. Grasp the shock absorber body and stroke it up and down as far as possible. Damping forces should be equal on each side of the vehicle. Some vehicles are equipped with gas-charged shocks. Their sealed gas pressure will resist expansion and compression.

To bench-test a shock absorber, position it in the same direction it's installed in the vehicle, then extend it fully. Next, turn it upside down and fully compress it. Repeat several times. Replace the shock absorber if there's a lag or skip near the midstroke as the shaft changes direction, the shaft seizes at any point in its travel (except at the ends), any noise other than a swish or click is heard when the stroke is reversed rapidly, any leaks are observed or the action remains erratic after purging air.

When they aren't being ignored, shock absorbers are often replaced in an attempt to correct a condition that doesn't need correcting. A light film of oil on the upper portion of the shock absorber tube or body is acceptable. However, a shock absorber dripping fluid is a sign of leakage, and the unit should be replaced. Just make sure the leak is not from another part. Shock absorbers do not support suspension loads. Don't replace shocks to correct vehicle sag; that's a job for the springs.

Struts

The strut shaft is a structural suspension member that takes the place of the upper control arm bushings and upper ball joint. The strut shaft is also the shock absorber shaft, so it must be able to handle both vertical and horizontal loads.

Strut inspection should begin with a road test. As with shock diagnosis, be on the lookout for abnormal handling, deteriorated ride quality, vibration or any of the other symptoms already mentioned during acceleration, braking and cornering.

Back in the shop, bounce the vehicle while checking for binding that may indicate a bent strut shaft. Inspect the strut for leaks or poor damping. Poor damping is an indication of worn strut valving or lost strut fluid. The top strut mount contains a bearing that carries the vehicle load. Check it for binding or roughness while steering from left to right with the tires on the ground.

Measure the chassis height and compare to specifications. If the height is below the minimum or poor ride quality or handling problems were noted during the road test, spring replacement is probably necessary. The spring is an integral part of the strut, so strut disassembly will be necessary to replace the spring. To maintain consistent side-to-side ride height, always replace strut springs in pairs.

[nonick]

Re: Handling Issues

Thanks for the info, after reading through that some of the symptoms the article described sound about right. Any recommendations on some good shocks to go with the eibach springs that I have?

Also out of curiousity, the dealer actually told me that the shocks would go around 40k with the lowered springs (dealer installed), cars been about 30k so it seems a bit quick, but I figured it was just a estimate anyways...