New engine break-in what to do?

[Tuna]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

A hard break-in is either done with a few runs on the dyno, or by driving it hard for about 30 minutes. then change the oil right away while all the crud is still in suspension.

The manual recommends the procedure it does because it has to be written for the biggest idiot out there. Joe dummy would follow the 'drive the snot out of it' advice and either not run it to redline a number of times because he doesn't like to abuse the car, or it scares him, or he doesn't want to waste the gas and then NOT change the oil because he'll do it tomorrow, he doesn't want to waste the money, he doesn't believe in dumping oil after 30 km.

Owners manuals and procedures need to be written for the type of doughhead who after an accident writes on the report 'and the tree jumped in front of me'.

Then I guess I'm one of those "dummies" you speak of because I wouldn't redline a new engine. Driving 3/4 RPM's through stop and go traffic, those are real world conditions, and makes sense. That's the way I've always been told, I've never heard of the bag the crap out of it for a couple hundred km's and change the oil. I don't even bag the crap out of a worked in engine why would I bag a new one.

Anyway, that is my "opinion" but also, it's what VW recommends.

That is all I'll say on the subject, Dubspeed, I just want you to enjoy the car and not jeapordize warranty or premature wear. Both methods might be valid so i'll leave you to decide.

Jason

[NeonGTI]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

From a manufacturer of aircraft engines.

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main...neBreakIn.html

For those who still think that running the engine hard during break-in falls into the category of cruel and unusual punishment, there is one more argument for high power settings during engine break-in. The use of low power settings does not expand the piston rings enough, and a film of oil is left on the cylinder walls. The high temperatures in the combustion chamber will oxidize this oil film so that it creates a condition commonly known as glazing of the cylinder walls. When this happens, the ring break-in process stops, and excessive oil consumption frequently occurs. The bad news is that extensive glazing can only be corrected by removing the cylinders and rehoning the walls. This is expensive, and it is an expense that can be avoided by proper break in procedures.



http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.cessna.org/benefits/articles/breakin.html

There are more, and there are just as many, I'm sure, that point to the other method.

[Khyron]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

And if you note, the owners manual says to not exceed 3/4s the vehicles max speed. That's well over 160km/hr - not exactly babying it. The biggest thing is just to vary the rpms so things seal evenly. So if you do highway, play with the car and go under the speed limit then go 30 over, then downshift and cruise at 110 in 3 different gears.

I'm not saying abuse it by running it at redline for an hour, but work it - don't floor it all the time, but give a few good acceleration runs.

Ultimately it's not going to make a huge difference in the short term - a few hp here or there, and maybe some repairs a bit earlier than normal later on.

Edit: And changing the oil quickly is simply to remove the metal burs and fillings that are worn off a new engine. Modern cars have good oil filters so it's not as important as say a motorcycle. But that's the reason. On a new motorbike you often will change the oil after 100km.

Khyron

[dubspeedGTi]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

And if you note, the owners manual says to not exceed 3/4s the vehicles max speed. That's well over 160km/hr - not exactly babying it. The biggest thing is just to vary the rpms so things seal evenly. So if you do highway, play with the car and go under the speed limit then go 30 over, then downshift and cruise at 110 in 3 different gears.

I'm not saying abuse it by running it at redline for an hour, but work it - don't floor it all the time, but give a few good acceleration runs.

Ultimately it's not going to make a huge difference in the short term - a few hp here or there, and maybe some repairs a bit earlier than normal later on.

Edit: And changing the oil quickly is simply to remove the metal burs and fillings that are worn off a new engine. Modern cars have good oil filters so it's not as important as say a motorcycle. But that's the reason. On a new motorbike you often will change the oil after 100km.

Khyron

when you say max speed do you mean the speed to redline in 5th or the fuel cut. The us spec GTi has a fuel cut at 130mph and 3/4 of that is 97.5mph which is 156kph. I have one more question regarding this matter does the 1.8t have hydraulic lifters?

[Silverstoned]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

when you say max speed do you mean the speed to redline in 5th or the fuel cut. The us spec GTi has a fuel cut at 130mph and 3/4 of that is 97.5mph which is 156kph. I have one more question regarding this matter does the 1.8t have hydraulic lifters?

I did as described above, running 3/4 to redline, and varying speed from 90-150kph in varied gears as well. I had my oil changed with Synthetic, but not until about 4000km.

[R_Ethug]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

see i'm gonna have to go on what i posted above.. our cars are factory fill with synthetic and the break in oil doesn't exist..

the oil in my when i bought it looked the exact same as my current 5w40 .. basically looked like crisco..

[Khyron]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

I changed mine at around 4000K as well, and went straight to 5/40 synthetic.

By max speed I mean redlining 5th. Our governer hits at are 215km/hr so going 160 would be about my max at first. Difference between breaking in and stressing. I have no idea about the lifter question. I just know our valves are noisy as hell.

Khyron

[dubspeedGTi]

Re: New engine break-in what to do?

I was just thinking about the lifters because, if they are hydraulic that means they run with the engine oil and if it gets gunked up quick with engine shavings it could also damage the valves/lifters. I was concerned that is all. I talked to a friend of mine that went to automotive college and he said not ot run the crap out of it, he recomended to baby it as much as possiable for the first 1500mi at least then graduly start bringing it up from there. I don't really like this idea because I think about 2 oil changes by 1000mi will be fine I was thinking 1 after i return from my 5 hour trip from the port and then another at 1000mi and, then I will run the crap out of it. I plan on racing it in an autocross event after that.