Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

[dubspeedGTi]

I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with these. I was wondering if they are as good as they claim. Are they really as strong as a solid bar? Do they have a problem with breaking? Is the weight loss worth it? thanks

[Boy Racer]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

Hollow bars are nothing new or to worry about. They are still offering the same torsion of a solid bar but have more mechanical advantage due to their larger diameter and therfore can be hollowed out (the part that resists twisting the least is the middle). They should be in no way less reliable than solid bars.

[dubspeedGTi]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

I was thinking of getting these but was unsure. Thanks for clearing it up for me.

[Boy Racer]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

The new clubsport adjustable Autotechs come in at $336 each if you are interested.

[Silverstoned]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

I have the RSB on my car if you want to take a closer look at it. I should be at the June meet.

Jeff

[Smartiepants]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

I dunno, they are the ones that involve drilling aren't they? For that reason I would tend to go with Neuspeed.

[R_Ethug]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

the new HR sway bars look very very nice.. me thinks i'll buy a hr rsb

[Derick]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

the new HR sway bars look very very nice.. me thinks i'll buy a hr rsb

The new H&R ones look really nice. No drilling or lubrication is required which is a huge bonus. Too bad these weren't out at the time I bought my Neuspeed bar. But no complaints, the Neuspeed one rocks too

[Flanders]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

I've got the autotech hollow bar on my jetta...and boy oh boy is it ever a nice difference!!! The drilling really isn't that big of a deal. Measure twice, drill once and it's pretty damn easy. Definitely worth the $$!

[Ryan S]

Re: Autotech L/W hollow sway bars?

I've had ABD hollow bars on my Jetta 3 for 3 years and over 100,000kms. One of the poly bushings is starting to squeak. That the only problem so far. I had to drill two holes for the rear. Wow, that was really hard. I should spent more money to not have to drill two holes. What was I thinking?

It was actually the front that was a huge PITA. Because the bar was so thick, the front subframe had to be dropped out more than "just a bit" (the bar mounts between the subframe and frame). Some of the bolts had to come right out. When we put it all back together two hours later, and I got into the car to drive away, I found the steering wheel would spin free. The knuckle pulled apart at the subframe. So, we went through the whole process again. At least we didn't have to drill any holes.

Regarding the hollow/solid argument. Take two bars made with the same alloy. One's solid; the other's thicker, and hollow. Both are made with the same amount of material. Guess which one is stronger (torsionally)? Yep, the hollow one. So to make a hollow one the same strength as a solid one you can actually take away material. This is why hollow swaybars are lighter.