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If you rebuild and want to run the same boost on that tune... no less than 94 octane WITH water meth! I stll don't know if WM will be enough, we'll have to throw it on the dyno and listen for deto
i guess there is a reason why C2 tunes its software like it does and sends a 4bar FPR with its kits now.
i know there tunes aren't the greatest, but because they run rich in the top end there is never a worry of going too lean.
remember you are also doing this at elevation, and that if you want to take your car to the coast with the tune it has, it better not be having issues on 94 here.
94 is also impossible to find in the states, so you should keep that in mind.
Team Highschool Twin Turbo Turbo Smurf Avant
www.ctsturbo.com - the home for all your turbo needs. PM me for details.
If you rebuild and want to run the same boost on that tune... no less than 94 octane WITH water meth! I stll don't know if WM will be enough, we'll have to throw it on the dyno and listen for deto
I think its just a spun bearing DJ. Its just a bunch of metal filings that you are looking at in the oil pan. No rod parts :P
that big light spot on the right below the plug looked like a hole in the pan so i assumed it was a rod going through there.
I would strongly suggest getting a baffled pan for your setup. The VR's are notorious for oil starvation under left hand cornering, i dont know if that is what caused this to go, but it is a known issue they face. The baffled pans help alleviate a lot of these issues.
Team Highschool Twin Turbo Turbo Smurf Avant
www.ctsturbo.com - the home for all your turbo needs. PM me for details.
that big light spot on the right below the plug looked like a hole in the pan so i assumed it was a rod going through there.
I would strongly suggest getting a baffled pan for your setup. The VR's are notorious for oil starvation under left hand cornering, i dont know if that is what caused this to go, but it is a known issue they face. The baffled pans help alleviate a lot of these issues.
im not to worried about that, as i can barely keep the car going straight.
Looks like my vans oilpan. Although mind had plastic in it and it was aluminum from the chains slapping against the casing.
Name: Brent
His: '04 TDI Golf Mods: None If it's smoken it ain't broken
Family: '15 Jetta Sportwagon
Fun car: '92 Blue Karmann Crabby Cabby Mods: Coils, front and rear swaybars, LED interior lights and some other old things.
I guess we will see when we take the bottom end apart.
when are you doing it? i'd like to see. i can determine a lot from that.
although i already do know the cause of the damage. detonation from a lean AFR due to the regulator change. i'm curious if the rod is bent also.
the hardest part about his car is the exhaust volume. hearing detonation is difficult :( you can feel it though, if he had traction.
i think there are a lot of issues with that build. no one knows what his injector duty cycle was to begin with. additionaly, the afr was never really logged after the regulator change. i asked what the afr's were last week and 2 different ppl responded with different numbers. both numbers were 12 and high 11's. i said at that moment, the engine won't last another month. i didn't like being right, sorry. :(
if that oldschool obd ecu will still be used on the new engine, then i would turn the boost down to 10 and enjoy the car with the current new fuel regulator. i gaurentee the car will be VERY responsive with that new regulator at 10 psi. i'd also want to verify the AFR before i commit to that statement though. if you are indeed seeing high 11's and 12 and there is no tuning solution? he needs water meth
Matt, seeing as how the engine is coming apart anyway I suggest you order in the parts and replace the following;
timing chains and guides, both sets upper and lower
headspacer, if the car doesn't have one already, install a 9:1 to lower the compression,
two headgaskets if you're doing a spacer
metal water pipe (crack pipe)
new upgraded mk4 metal water pump
new thermostat and silicone up the existing housing once its all together so you'll never have to worry about a leak ever again
ARP headstud hardware
I would look at replacing the oil return line from the turbo to the pan...the older kinetic kits are known to dry out and crack over time. Get a high quality hose for it
serpentine belt
All of these things are known issues with the VR, its not a matter of if they will break, its when, and doing them now will save you the extremely horrible task of having to repull the motor. This way it'll be good for at least another 100,000km's. All of those parts are in places next to impossible to reach with the engine in, and if its out and apart you will be taking them off the engine anyway.
IF you need a line on parts let me know.
Team Highschool Twin Turbo Turbo Smurf Avant
www.ctsturbo.com - the home for all your turbo needs. PM me for details.
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