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Sounds like the turbo is on the way out or you have a really bad MAF.
Name: Brent
His: '04 TDI Golf Mods: None If it's smoken it ain't broken
Family: '15 Jetta Sportwagon
Fun car: '92 Blue Karmann Crabby Cabby Mods: Coils, front and rear swaybars, LED interior lights and some other old things.
You could also have a vacuum leak. Have you felt up the vnt actuator to see if it is stuck at all?
Name: Brent
His: '04 TDI Golf Mods: None If it's smoken it ain't broken
Family: '15 Jetta Sportwagon
Fun car: '92 Blue Karmann Crabby Cabby Mods: Coils, front and rear swaybars, LED interior lights and some other old things.
hook up a vag com select engine -> basic settings 11 . while car is running check for the vnt actuator going up and down 3/4 inch ish if not at all vacume issue ,if not moving much needs to be broke free , i have sepecial tool for this if its moving fine thn issue is else where
I went through all of this. I got my car and did the following. Machined a billet egr delete race pipe, removed manifold and de-gunked it and then ported and polished the runners. Put it all back together and did a straight pipe exhaust and installed some kinetics 216 nozzles. Doing the math, with these mods it was supposed to put my car to around 115hp as opposed to the stock 90. All back together it was a lot more fun but I thought the results would be better, and then it started boosting a bit weird. So I installed a boost gauge and found that the car was overboosting to the point that it would spike at 27psi and hold at 22psi. This greatly concerned me, tested my VNT actuator and N75 valve(boost controller) and found that the actuator was toast and would not hold vacuum. So, I pulled the actuator and found that the vanes were totally seized. So I cleaned the turbo, installed new actuator and then the car had some serious jam when you hit the pedal. Here is a link to how I cleaned the turbo using Easy-Off oven cleaner without having to remove the turbo. Trust me, its 100% worth the effort. Also replace all your vacuum lines. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=48
One thing to keep in mind as well, the egr delete race pipe has no flapper or "butterfly" valve which is what shuts your car off in the event of a runaway turbo. Be sure your turbo absolutely does not leak or you run the risk of runaway, which is a very expensive and not pretty job. If it does runaway, you have mere seconds to pull your intake tube off to shut the engine down before that turbo blows up.
Sorry for the long post but I figure you would want all the info you could get. And it's only my second post haha.
I went through all of this. I got my car and did the following. Machined a billet egr delete race pipe, removed manifold and de-gunked it and then ported and polished the runners. Put it all back together and did a straight pipe exhaust and installed some kinetics 216 nozzles. Doing the math, with these mods it was supposed to put my car to around 115hp as opposed to the stock 90. All back together it was a lot more fun but I thought the results would be better, and then it started boosting a bit weird. So I installed a boost gauge and found that the car was overboosting to the point that it would spike at 27psi and hold at 22psi. This greatly concerned me, tested my VNT actuator and N75 valve(boost controller) and found that the actuator was toast and would not hold vacuum. So, I pulled the actuator and found that the vanes were totally seized. So I cleaned the turbo, installed new actuator and then the car had some serious jam when you hit the pedal. Here is a link to how I cleaned the turbo using Easy-Off oven cleaner without having to remove the turbo. Trust me, its 100% worth the effort. Also replace all your vacuum lines. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=48
One thing to keep in mind as well, the egr delete race pipe has no flapper or "butterfly" valve which is what shuts your car off in the event of a runaway turbo. Be sure your turbo absolutely does not leak or you run the risk of runaway, which is a very expensive and not pretty job. If it does runaway, you have mere seconds to pull your intake tube off to shut the engine down before that turbo blows up.
Sorry for the long post but I figure you would want all the info you could get. And it's only my second post haha.
Boost valve calms down those spikes you get with big injectors.
Did you do all that without a chip? With a chip and .205's, I ended up with 125.5whp.
I went through all of this. I got my car and did the following. Machined a billet egr delete race pipe, removed manifold and de-gunked it and then ported and polished the runners. Put it all back together and did a straight pipe exhaust and installed some kinetics 216 nozzles. Doing the math, with these mods it was supposed to put my car to around 115hp as opposed to the stock 90. All back together it was a lot more fun but I thought the results would be better, and then it started boosting a bit weird. So I installed a boost gauge and found that the car was overboosting to the point that it would spike at 27psi and hold at 22psi. This greatly concerned me, tested my VNT actuator and N75 valve(boost controller) and found that the actuator was toast and would not hold vacuum. So, I pulled the actuator and found that the vanes were totally seized. So I cleaned the turbo, installed new actuator and then the car had some serious jam when you hit the pedal. Here is a link to how I cleaned the turbo using Easy-Off oven cleaner without having to remove the turbo. Trust me, its 100% worth the effort. Also replace all your vacuum lines. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=48
One thing to keep in mind as well, the egr delete race pipe has no flapper or "butterfly" valve which is what shuts your car off in the event of a runaway turbo. Be sure your turbo absolutely does not leak or you run the risk of runaway, which is a very expensive and not pretty job. If it does runaway, you have mere seconds to pull your intake tube off to shut the engine down before that turbo blows up.
Sorry for the long post but I figure you would want all the info you could get. And it's only my second post haha.
I've had a runaway turbo with my egr delete, just slam it in a taller gear and stall it. That worked fine for me, assuming its a standard of course.
D.J.
2001 Jetta TDI GL Silver
Malone Tune stage 5+ ,VNT17-22Turbo, OMI, PP Race Pipe, PD 150 Intake, 2 1/2" Straight back exhaust, no mufflers, 2 1/2" downpipe straight no Cat, Race 520 Injectors, 11mm Fuel Pump, Lift Pump, EGR Delete mod,DC Stage IV Clutch, Michelin X-Ice 2's, 26 lb/s of boost alll day long, Smoking like a train!
Boost spikes have nothing to do with the injectors. When the vanes are stuck there is no boost variation. The N75 solenoid controls the actuator but if the vanes are seized, the turbo will overboost and the car can go into limp mode. Or likewise, if either the N75 solenoid or the actuator arent working properly, the car will refuse to boost properly. Leaking old vacuum lines can be a problem as well. MAF can cause this, but unplugging it and seeing no change just means that the MAF is not the problem. Someone stated this earlier on, you need to attach a vacuum pump to the actuator and see if it holds vacuum up to 18psi, and as you do this, see if the actuator arm is moving a full inch up and down. If not, pull that downpipe off and start working with the easy off.
As far as my personal car goes, I'm just waiting till spring to do a unitronic flash and a VR6 clutch with single mass flywheel, I figured there was no point to do all of that just to have crazy wheelspin on icy roads.
Boost spikes have nothing to do with the injectors. When the vanes are stuck there is no boost variation. The N75 solenoid controls the actuator but if the vanes are seized, the turbo will overboost and the car can go into limp mode. Or likewise, if either the N75 solenoid or the actuator arent working properly, the car will refuse to boost properly. Leaking old vacuum lines can be a problem as well. MAF can cause this, but unplugging it and seeing no change just means that the MAF is not the problem. Someone stated this earlier on, you need to attach a vacuum pump to the actuator and see if it holds vacuum up to 18psi, and as you do this, see if the actuator arm is moving a full inch up and down. If not, pull that downpipe off and start working with the easy off.
As far as my personal car goes, I'm just waiting till spring to do a unitronic flash and a VR6 clutch with single mass flywheel, I figured there was no point to do all of that just to have crazy wheelspin on icy roads.
I'm pretty sure you will see spikes when you have the chip and big injectors in, regardless of the condition of your turbo. I know I did, and my turbo was fine. I think it only had 20k km on it when I first chipped it.
"Boost spike is a major issue with the VNT turbo. Back pressure or excess fuel can cause the boost to rise faster than the turbo's vanes can react. Spike and surge can cause the ECU to react by pulling out timing from the motor, this results in lower torque output."
I think boost valve is a pretty essential part of the setup if you are increasing fueling. The stock components don't react fast enough.
I had the same clutch setup you are going for. I liked it a lot, but the single mass flywheel resonates quite a bit on a TDI, so expect a little more noise when idling.
Stefan
-> '19 Deep Black Pearl Alltrack
-> '05 Urban Grey Passat Wagon TDI.
-> Past rides: '14 Allroad, 06 Mazda5, '98 Jetta K2, '01 Jetta TDI, '91 Mazda B2200, '81 Toyota Cressida
-> FutuRe Ride...??!
Boost spikes have nothing to do with the injectors. When the vanes are stuck there is no boost variation. The N75 solenoid controls the actuator but if the vanes are seized, the turbo will overboost and the car can go into limp mode. Or likewise, if either the N75 solenoid or the actuator arent working properly, the car will refuse to boost properly. Leaking old vacuum lines can be a problem as well. MAF can cause this, but unplugging it and seeing no change just means that the MAF is not the problem. Someone stated this earlier on, you need to attach a vacuum pump to the actuator and see if it holds vacuum up to 18psi, and as you do this, see if the actuator arm is moving a full inch up and down. If not, pull that downpipe off and start working with the easy off.
As far as my personal car goes, I'm just waiting till spring to do a unitronic flash and a VR6 clutch with single mass flywheel, I figured there was no point to do all of that just to have crazy wheelspin on icy roads.
If you have wheel spin with just a chip, you're not driving your car properly. Yeah it will be harder to prevent wheel spin then if you were stock, but I got no problem doing it with bigger injectors and a chip. My bro has his big turbo, chip, injectors, fmic, lift pump, bigger fuel pump and only has wheel spin when he drives it like an idiot. You can have wheel spin with a stock tdi too, just don't drive like an idiot and you will not have wheel spin. Yeah, that maf trick I was talking about is a priceless way of ruling out that its not the problem. If you have vagcom you can skip the whole vacuum test and just watch your boost/vacuum while you drive. If you're planning on doing a chip, get a boost valve and gauge.
Answer to your question Stefan, not really.
2001 Jetta TDI GL Silver
Malone Tune stage 5+ ,VNT17-22Turbo, OMI, PP Race Pipe, PD 150 Intake, 2 1/2" Straight back exhaust, no mufflers, 2 1/2" downpipe straight no Cat, Race 520 Injectors, 11mm Fuel Pump, Lift Pump, EGR Delete mod,DC Stage IV Clutch, Michelin X-Ice 2's, 26 lb/s of boost alll day long, Smoking like a train!
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