parking for winter

[gheron]

welll... as much as it pains me to say, its almost time for her to go in to hibernation im just wondering what needs to be done before she goes to sleep so when i pull her out she will start right up, fresh fluids? full tank of gas? i dont know, and i know some of you park yours over winter so what do you do?

Thanks
Jonathan

[aliencurv]

Re: parking for winter

if you want to save your tires, put it on jack stands.

make sure u have a near empty tank of gas. for both safety reasons and octane goes away over time. anything over 1/8th is a fire hazard due to high air/fuel ratio in the tank lol. so make sure your "fuel light" is on.

other then that unhook the battery and put a cloth in the exhaust so mice don't sneak in there.

leave it with it's fluids and stuff. when next year rolls around, just change the oil and fill the tank with a jerry can of good happy 94

[RobG]

Re: parking for winter

So soon?

[Jester B]

Re: parking for winter

anything over 1/8th is a fire hazard due to high air/fuel ratio in the tank lol.

Ummm, I'm no expert, but less gas means more vapour. It's the vapour that goes boom, not the gas.

I've never stored a car, so don't know the "correct" way....but this statement just didn't make sense.

[longsock]

Re: parking for winter

I've never stored my car over the winter but I have found articles that differ. Apprently you are supposed to fill your gas tank all the way to the top. This will save your fuel system from oxidation and will also displace any water that may currently be in the system. Be sure to add the fuel system stabilizer at the same time (which usually includes driving the car for 20 min. after)

Change old brake fluid before storing a vehicle; dirty fluid will corrode metal.

Change the oil and oil filter before storing.

Same goes with Coolant and clutch fluid, needs to be replaced.

[GINCH]

Re: parking for winter

I store a car every winter and always fill the tank to full. Make sure that you add a fuel stabilizer (stabil) however. I also thoroughly clean and wax the car, change the oil and remove the battery. If you are leaving the car on the ground (vs putting it on stands, I would recommend filling the tires with a bit more air than normal. Or roll the car back and forth a few feet every week or so. This will eliminate any flat spots on the tires. Leave the windows open a crack and cover with a quality car cover. Again, I have done this to several cars for many winters and they all fire up first crank come spring time. I also will change the oil again when spring arrives!

[vee_dubbin]

Re: parking for winter

As far as the jackstands point go, I hear that your struts has a greater possibility of leaking the hydraulic fluid inside if they are fully extended for a long period of time. A better solution is too air up the tires to 50 -55 psi and do exactly what "GRINCH" said about rolling the car back and forth every two weeks or so.

I also hear some guys filling the combustion chamber with oil to prevent surface rust on cast iron type blocks, but you would need a siffener to suck it out come Spring, if it hadn't already seeped through the rings and into the oil pan by then. And make sure you don't forget about the oil in the chambers before starting the engine. This would hydro-lock the motor and will have catastrophic results. It would be a good idea to drain and fill the oil before the first start as well in case the oil level is way to high in the pan. This would also hydro-lock the engine from underneath the pistons.

[gheron]

Re: parking for winter

thanks guy... i got a set of **** tires i dont care about that im gonna throw on would turning the car on say once or twice a month for a few minutes be a good idea?

[ricosuave]

Re: parking for winter

check it often for mice, because they like to nest wherever hey can get in

if its in a garage, get one of those electronic mouse noise things

[aliencurv]

Re: parking for winter

Ummm, I'm no expert, but less gas means more vapour. It's the vapour that goes boom, not the gas.

I've never stored a car, so don't know the "correct" way....but this statement just didn't make sense.

you're right in a way. and that's why i'm stating anything less then 1/8 of a tank is safe because there is lots of air and it dilutes the fuel vapour.

the main problem is ppl think a full tank is safest, but the vapour in the tank will leave through the breathing tube. also, a full tank of fuel will be ugly to drain when the summer hits. a fuel stabilizer won't sustain the octane and you'll end up with a tank of useless fuel.

ideally you want an empty tank, but that's not going to happen . not unless you know how to drain the tank using your returnless fuel system.

[canadianvballer]

Re: parking for winter

http://www.automedia.com/Vehicle_Sto...cr20010601sv/1

> Change the oil and filter. Used oil contains acids, moisture, and other combustion byproducts that, over time, can cause corrosion inside the engine.


> Fill the engine with fresh oil and then drive the vehicle for a few miles to make sure the new oil gets thoroughly circulated.


> Pull the spark plugs and pour about a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder. Then replace the plugs. This will help coat the cylinders to prevent rust.


> Seal off engine openings with absorbent cotton to keep moisture out.


> Remove the battery and clean its top with a mixture of baking soda and water. Ideally, a trickle charger should be used to keep the battery fully charged while the vehicle is in storage.


> Top up all fluids, including transmission and rear axle. Also look at the color of the brake fluid. New brake fluid is clear. If the fluid in the car looks brown and dirty, the system needs to be flushed. Old brake fluid has a lot of moisture in it, which could cause rust in the system.



> Drain the cooling system. If the engine's block and cylinder head(s) are cast-iron, refill the cooling system with new coolant. If one or both engine components are made of aluminum, leave the system empty—coolant can react with the aluminum, forming corrosion.


> Loosen the drivebelts to take the pressure off of the pulley bearings (unnecessary if the engine has an automatic drivebelt tensioner.)


> If the car will be in storage for a year or more, support it on jackstands or blocks. This will take the weight off of the wheel bearings and suspension components. Also, remove the wheels and tires, lower the tire pressure slightly, and store them flat and out of sunlight.


> If the wheels and tires will be left on the vehicle, add about 10 pounds of pressure to each tire. This will help prevent flat spots.


> Wash and wax the finish. Also, go over vinyl, leather, tires, and other rubber components with the proper type of protectant.


> If you wash the carpet and upholstery, let the vehicle air out until the inside is thoroughly dry. Sealing up a wet interior is a sure formula for mildew.


Although pouring teaspoon of oil into the cylinder? Won't it just sit on top of the piston? I think your best bet would be to start up the car every other week or so. And I'm sure that you should have your fuel tank full before storage.

[GINCH]

Re: parking for winter

There are several thoughts on whether to start the car every few weeks. I never do though and have never had any problems.

[aliencurv]

Re: parking for winter

There are several thoughts on whether to start the car every few weeks. I never do though and have never had any problems.

i've never done that to any of my cars with built motors.

[RobG]

Re: parking for winter

Starting an engine is when the most wear occurs, I always thought the less dry starts the better.

[gheron]

Re: parking for winter

http://www.automedia.com/Vehicle_Sto...cr20010601sv/1

> Change the oil and filter. Used oil contains acids, moisture, and other combustion byproducts that, over time, can cause corrosion inside the engine.


> Fill the engine with fresh oil and then drive the vehicle for a few miles to make sure the new oil gets thoroughly circulated.


> Pull the spark plugs and pour about a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder. Then replace the plugs. This will help coat the cylinders to prevent rust.


> Seal off engine openings with absorbent cotton to keep moisture out.


> Remove the battery and clean its top with a mixture of baking soda and water. Ideally, a trickle charger should be used to keep the battery fully charged while the vehicle is in storage.


> Top up all fluids, including transmission and rear axle. Also look at the color of the brake fluid. New brake fluid is clear. If the fluid in the car looks brown and dirty, the system needs to be flushed. Old brake fluid has a lot of moisture in it, which could cause rust in the system.



> Drain the cooling system. If the engine's block and cylinder head(s) are cast-iron, refill the cooling system with new coolant. If one or both engine components are made of aluminum, leave the system empty—coolant can react with the aluminum, forming corrosion.


> Loosen the drivebelts to take the pressure off of the pulley bearings (unnecessary if the engine has an automatic drivebelt tensioner.)


> If the car will be in storage for a year or more, support it on jackstands or blocks. This will take the weight off of the wheel bearings and suspension components. Also, remove the wheels and tires, lower the tire pressure slightly, and store them flat and out of sunlight.


> If the wheels and tires will be left on the vehicle, add about 10 pounds of pressure to each tire. This will help prevent flat spots.


> Wash and wax the finish. Also, go over vinyl, leather, tires, and other rubber components with the proper type of protectant.


> If you wash the carpet and upholstery, let the vehicle air out until the inside is thoroughly dry. Sealing up a wet interior is a sure formula for mildew.


Although pouring teaspoon of oil into the cylinder? Won't it just sit on top of the piston? I think your best bet would be to start up the car every other week or so. And I'm sure that you should have your fuel tank full before storage.

that seems like alot of work haha my break fluid is new cus i just changed it so cant i just do an oil change fill up the tank put some stabilizer in the tank, some baking soda with a crak open in the window to prevent any mildew and put some shiat wheels i dont care about on it, of corse wash and wax before sleep time and then cover her up for a few months?