Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

[100%VAGitarian]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

can tire or NAPA should have it.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

yeah i will have to swing by there tomorrow when i go to mopac and try and find the damn T fittings i need.

[Tuna]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

yeah i will have to swing by there tomorrow when i go to mopac and try and find the damn T fittings i need.

Do you have any extra return line hose? Or was it exactly the right length? I could use some. I damaged mine last night.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

i dont have any extra, but i know that canadian tire has the size you want because when i spoke with them they showed me a board with everything they have in stock.

[Tuna]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

i dont have any extra, but i know that canadian tire has the size you want because when i spoke with them they showed me a board with everything they have in stock.

Sweet thanks, should have wrote down the size while I was under there.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

i've got a chunk of it about an inch or so long that we cut off mine as it was too long you can use if you want to go around town looking for the right size. Otherwise just grab a digital caliper and measure that up.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

I might also suggest you make the switch to a steel braided line if its going to be a problem. I SHOULD have done that while my engine was out but we will wait and see. that way you never have to worry about it again

[Tuna]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

I might also suggest you make the switch to a steel braided line if its going to be a problem. I SHOULD have done that while my engine was out but we will wait and see. that way you never have to worry about it again

This one was steel braided, just the outer casing cracked so I'm afraid the hose clamp wont fit nice. Once I get everything bolted back up I'll see how it is.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Went home sick from work early today cause I felt like ****, so I took the opportunity to swing past some part shops on the way cause they are always closed when I get off work. Got 15 feet of vaccum line which should be more than enough to do all the engine bay stuff, the dump and the boost controller in the cabin. Also was able to track down some brass and plastic T fittings for my manifold and the vaccum lines so I can get that all sorted out.


Felt a little better this evening so I decided to spend a bit of time in the garage.


First up I installed the brass oil fitting into the turbo. I didn't use any sealant on it as people have commented it may clog the feed line. I tried to get it tight while still angling it towards the engine to make routing the line easy.




Next up I went and installed the fitting on top of the oil filter housing. I removed the blue sensor which I am told is the one we need to use, and set things up like you can see below. Now I didn't know if it was better to have the sensor on the top or on the side? I don't know if this will impact the oil flow substantially or what. Maybe someone can comment before I install the lines.






Next up I stripped back the TB sensor and the other sensor in the harness, as well as removed the plate the ground was connected to. Going to snip the one sensor out of the harness and tape up the ends, relocate the ground and then reroute the TB plug to the front so it can plug in. Couldn't find any bloody wire clutters that would do a good job so I held off this til tomorrow.






Also dug out my magical parts box I had stored under the table and forgotten about. Found a few harnesses I had forgotten about and things like the brake booster vaccum tube. Will need to install all of those this weekend.




This is my vaccum line cheat sheet that Alexi made for me....big thanks again man




While figuring out what i needed to do on the relocation of the check valve I removed the intake tubing and found the following:


Here you can see the charcoal canister vent line with the check valve, this will have to get pulled from the back and relocated to the front of the car and into the manifold.



But even stranger was the random connectors I found back there and didn't know existed. They obviously plug into each other, but where does that plate mount onto so it doesn't move around?



Also what the hell is this and where does it hook up to? It's located just below where the AC housing is on the firewall and even after consulting the bentley I can't figure out for the life of me what the hell it is and does, and where it hooks up to.




Found it....

It's a knock sensor (1 of 2) and bolts up to this bolt shown here:



I hope to get all of this sorted out over the long weekend, so the quicker I can get answers the better.

Thanks.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Got a whole ton of stuff done tonite in terms of sorting out wiring and sensors. Had a Rob's SC-VR come round and I did an oil change for him in exchange for his electrical skills and his car as the electrical blueprint diagram.


First up relocated the frequency valve. Rerouted the tubes from the charcoal canister as they will now go to the SRI at the front of the car. Cut the tubing, extended the sensor wiring as well. All that's left to do is route in the check valve and send it to the SRI to the T fitting.







Also hooked up the knock sensor in the back and torqued it properly, hooked up the o2 sensors down the back as well from last night that I couldn't figure out.


Next up we sorted out we dealt with removing the PCV sensor clip from the harness and cleaning up the wiring for the temp sensor. It will be loomed in properly and shrink wrapped up to look good.




Hooked up the battery grounds, the alternator, starter, sorted out that damn relay box i didn't know where it went (it was right behind the headlight on the drivers side BTW), and tons of other small stuff. Brake booster is attached. etc.

I also redid all of the oil fittings with high temp permatex thread sealer in an attempt to avoid a BBQ smurf. I'll still be installing a fire extinguisher into the car as well.


This is how we left it tonite, lot more stuff is gone from the box of goodies. Headlight harness still needs to be hooked up, and the rest of the vaccum lines need to be plumbed in. With the day off tomorrow and Brian coming round in the afternoon I hope to get this all buttoned up and ready to get loaded onto the trailer and sent to the welder for fabrication.


How it looks after I was done with it:




Not huge changes....but lots of subtle ones. Definetly a lot of progress tonite.


Couple of questions:

a) Can I run the DV off the vaccum nipple located on the brake booster line? There is a nipple aready built in there....just asking to be hooked up.

b) Where the hell does this hook up? it has a sensor that hooks up right near the front mount but just wondering where the actual plate hooks up to?

[asp gti]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

im not sure if u posted this or not, but what boost do u plan on running and what kinda whp numbers are u hoping for? this thing is looking bad ass dude! keep it up!

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

300whp with 12 psi.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Got so much stuff done today it's unbelievable. Little bit of a teaser shot for now, gonna go drinking will do a write up in the morning.





the smile on my face is a mile wide right now.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

March 21st, 2008 - It's a Real Car Again


Sooooo....Yesterday was a pretty busy day. I had Brian and Rob come over who would give me a hand to get everything sorted out and put back together. My goal for this weekend was to get the car ready to roll into the trailer and head to the welder for intercooler piping fabrication.


Started off clipping that bracket up to the front mount holder....thanks vortex guys for that one.




Also installed that relay that everyone kept telling me went up under the bottom of the coolant reservoir. In fact it bolts up between the back of the headlight and the washer reservoir.




Here you can see a better shot of the line we extended that runs to the check valve. It is now relocated right in the corner beneath where the headlight will go.


Next up was pulling out the old injectors from the fuel rail. Just takes a little strength to pull them out. it's a little rubber o-ring holding them in there once you get the metal and plastic clip released.






The finished product:





and then with the plastic wiring holder clipped back on





Then came removing the ECU and swapping the chips. If you remember on Day 1 of the build I removed the rain tray and all of that to expose the ECU holder. So today we unplugged it and pulled it out. I also took this time to vaccum out all the leaves and pine needles that were in there. It's a good idea to do this every so often as there is a drain hole there that gets clogged up with crap and leads to water in your passenger footwell.




THis is what the removed ECU case looks like. You then have to undo 4 bolts on the one edge to pull out the "motherboard"




My C2 42lb injector software




This is the chip board once it is pulled out of the holder, you can see the chip you need to replace it has the yellow sticker on it




We used some thumb tacks to pull the chip up




And installed the new chip




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Next up came dealing with all the wiring and vaccum lines. I wanted to make sure all the wires were grouped together and loomed properly so I needed some electrical tape, shrink wrap and zap straps.

When buying your zap straps it is important to ensure freshness of the strap....be sure to check for the silver freshness seal.






Now that's fresh.
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I installed my brass T-fittings into my short runner intake making sure they were in there good so as not to cause a vaccum leak.




I also pulled out of hiding the MMP phelonic spacer I have had for 2 years. Little did I know there was a secondary air injection delete frost plug in the bag with the allen bolts. The same one i spent over a week looking around town for. It's 3/4" btw....you would be amazed the IM/PM's i have got about that hahaha.




Here is an interesting one. The ports on the intake are quite a bit smaller than that on the head. Obviously I can't overlay the head on the intake and still have you see it, but using the phelonic spacer you can really see the difference. I wonder if its worth down the road to port that out slightly to get more flow?




Anyway. So we loosened off the serpentine belt, then removed the tensioner, then undid the bolt holding on the alternator and swung it down. This allowed us enough room to reach all of the bolts on the intake manifold to bolt it up to the head. Those germans really know how to put bolts in awkward places. One is on the bottom directly behind where the TB bolts up making it very tricky to get in and tightend


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Once the manifold was installed we could do a lot more things. First I installed the fuel rail. It only uses two bolts now to hold it in place but its on there good and doesn't bounce around. We also then bolted up the throttle body to the manifold. You can see the phelonic spacer board in this pic between the intake and the head. For those who don't know what they do it helps to reduce the amount of heat transfer from the head to the intake. Usually on a stock setup you can't touch your intake after a drive cause its so hot...the spacer helps reduce the heat transfer making the intake cooler.




I then installed the plastic rail on the fuel rail and put all the wiring where it needed to go for the injectors


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Next up I installed the oil feed line from the top of the oil filter housing to the turbo. I tried to keep the cable as out of the way as possible. I also hooked up the fuel lines to the fuel rail, and installed the dip stick. To install the dip stick I had to grind the bracket off of it that used to bolt up to i think the lower intake on the stock setup. That was ground off and sanded smooth so it would fit through the SRI and down into the block and oilpan.






With that done I decided to pull the rad out for a test fit and see how close the clearances were going to be.








As you can see it was tight....but fit with enough room. What I did do was grind down one of the bolts on the fan shroud a little. It was very close to the TB throttle cable hookup that would move when I stepped on the gas, so to avoid any potential issues I ground off 1/2" off the bolt end.

I removed the rad again, and hooked up the throttle cable, and the intake temp sensor in the SRI.




I then got greedy and intalled all the intake stuff to the turbo. God that looks sexy.




I then found out these pieces of garbage in the front of the car are from the secondary air injection setup, so i more than happily cut them out.




It is slowly starting to resemble a real car again






Next up the radiator was installed for good






And then the AC condensor.




And then the lines for the AC were hooked up.






It is going to be tight with the AC lines there and the SRI and intercooler piping but it looks like its going to fit. Worst comes to worst I get some custom lines made up, not the end of the world to do.

That's how it sits now. I will not be bolting on the front end as the welder will have to take it off again, so to make his life easy the car will go to him like this and then the stuff can be bolted up when its done.

I hope to get it into the trailer sometime early this week, it will go and get the end tanks, test pipe/dump, and intercooler plumbing all fabbed up.

Stuff left to do on the car includes:
- installing the oil cooler and the lines that run to it
- installing the boost gauge and boost controller
- installing the fuel pump
- installing the wiring and lines for the dump
- hooking up and installing the diverter valve
- hooking up and installing the oil catch can
- painting the intercooler black with heat displacement paint

and a few other things.


I am so excited it is getting this close. The street sweepers are officially out cleaning the gravel up from the winter that they put down for the snow....so the roads will be ready for me soon enough.

I estimate a week with George at TuneDUB who will be fabricating everything before the car comes back and it turns over.

George if you see this, this is the 4 day warning I promised before the car arrives hahaha.

[R_Ethug]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

awesome!