Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

photobucket took a poop. i will have to upgrade later

[DeanerF]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

which plate are you gonna run ?

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Bear with me as I cover some of the stuff from yesterday, I am cross posting a lot of this to 2 other forums for the hope it may help someone else out who is stuck when they are doing their stuff so this post might cover some of the stuff already.


January 26/27, 2008 - Begin Playing With Turbo Parts


So this weekend I decided to take an inventory of all of my turbo parts and begin arranging them into their respective groups and figuring out what goes where. I don't know about other kits but when you get the kinetic kit very few parts are labelled and many of the smaller nuts, bolts and parts are simply put into a big bag and you are expected to figure out what goes where.


So I layed out all the pieces on the table...and at someone's request have labelled all of the parts.








For those that aren't able to distinguish between the feed and returns on the turbo this should help:


Here is a pic of the oil feed:





and oil return:





This is what comes in the OIL RETURN BAG:
The flange bolts up to the turbo using the two bolts I labelled up top, but you need to drill out the flange slightly as the holes aren't big enough. Apparently during production Kinetic specified the wrong size holes so now they are too small. it's an easy fix however. Place the rubber gasket between the flange and the turbo to ensure no leaks. The other two fitings go into the bung that is welded on the oil pan.




Next up came the Oil Feed Line which runs from the oil filter housing to the turbo to supply the oil. As I said there is a little part that must be taken off of the turbo to allow the fitting to go into the turbo properly.


This is the assembley order of the end that attaches to the oil filer housing (once you remove the blue sensor and put the T fitting into the filter housing and then the sensor on the other end of the T)





When you try and screw the other 90* fitting into the turbo you run into the following problem:







To combat the problem I did the following:

Undid the 3 13mm bolts on the turbo:




Pulled off the gold piece that makes its way around the turbo




Screwed in the 90* fitting for the oil line and aligned it so it would point forward between the hot and cold side of the turbo




Then bolted it all back up for a test fit. It just barely fits in there even with the god plate off. Kind of stupid design if you ask me but oh well. I'm going to see if I can find a swivel bit and a straight bit like the silver one that will just go right into the turbo.

The clearance even with the plate off is minimal




Ideally I would like to get that fitting to face 180* from where it is, so it points forward towards the block when installed, but I can't seem to do that. So I might try and find a swivel fitting to bolt in there.



Next up I installed the MAF into the new 4" housing.

You can see the difference in the size of the stock one and the new 4" MAF housing:






To undo the MAF in the stock housing you need a special Torx "Anti-Theft" bit. its the standard torx bit with a hole in the middle. I think the size is a T20. I went to Canadian tire and asked the guy if I could just use it quickly to undo something and he opened the case and let me. It came in a kit which was $30 and I really didn't need to buy the whole set just for two little things.




Pulled the MAF out of the stock housing




And installed it in the new one







Yesterday I also picked up the tranny which has since had the LSD and longer 5th gear installed. Big thanks to George from TuneDUB for the work. You can't really see it, obviously, but pics nonetheless haha. I will be cleaning up the tranny housing over the next week while I wait on the clutch and pressure plate which are on a 10 day order.









This morning I also swung by Derek's (Ginch) place and picked up some OEM pieces he had for me.

I need to replace a piece of my thermostat housing and the gaskets as it was leaking, so I took apart the stock one and pulled the sensors and T-Stat.

This is the old gross one:



This is the new top half with the sensors:



To undo the old one and get the T-Stat out I undid the 3 5mm allen bolts and carefully pried the two halves apart




Using a flathead screwdriver I carefully lifted out the thermostat inside. There is a large rubber gasket that runs around it to seal it in there, which is a real pain in the ass to get out. Just be careful cause you dont want to break or bend the edges of the T-Stat itself.








I then pulled out the 3 sensors that are in the housing as well. MK4 owners I believe you only have 1 sensor. Mk3's have these 3. To remove them simply remove the tension clip using a flat head screwdriver and pull them out.






I will be cleaning up the bottom half of the old one, and reassembling the two halves using some silicone later in the week. Will document that as well as its a good way to stop leaking T-stat housings. And mine seem to leak no matter what I do.



I will be sending the hot side of the turbo, manifold, and downpipe to the ceramic coaters this week, so I had to disassemble the turbo.

This is what the hot side looks like from above:




What you want to do is undo the 13mm black bolts pictured below attached to the HOT side











There is one bolt you wont be able to remove until its the last one as the oil feed area gets in the way. Once all the other bolts are off you can pivot the hot side to allow clearance for removal.




Once all the bolts are out carefully twist and lift the cold side away from the hot side straight up




You will be left with the hot side on the table







That's it for today. More will come as more parts begin to arrive. Once parts are back from ceramic coating I can assemble all the turbo parts onto the engine in the stand, and once the clutch arrives I can put that in and bolt up the tranny, and then put it all into the car and begin connecting everything else.

Hope this helps others.

[DeanerF]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

no new thermostat ? geeee

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

LOL

thermostat and sensors are new as of last winter. I had a coolant leak i tried fixing and replaced all of the parts then. This is why im going to silicone everything up this time as well.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

BTW im gonna slash your tires when i next see you

[DeanerF]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

yeah, iwas gonna ask if they were new... but didnt

BTW im gonna slash your tires when i next see you

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

roflcopter...ATTACK!

[Kor]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Buy a Greddy EBC on ebay, you probably won't regret it. Solenoid > ball & spring valve.

[bart]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

no way what are you talking about? ball & spring baby! i just have to wd40 from time to time to get all the humidity out of it

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

im getting a greddy profec II spec B already

[Tuna]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

im getting a greddy profec II spec B already

Cool, then you can help me tweak mine next year haha.

[Kor]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Cool, then you can help me tweak mine next year haha.

I had the Profec S and I thought it was better than the Spec B

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

if you know how to properly tune them the B has more features and ends up being slightly better.

Jason I will dig up a link for you.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

just dropped off bits with topgun coatings in the NE. $75 for the manifold and $55 for the hot side. Not bad for keeping things cool. I spoke with a number of VR-T guys who had not ceramic coated and all complained of under the hood temps skyrocketing under heard driving