Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

what do you mean dean?

[DeanerF]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

your not even painting the block ?

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

:rofl:

that guy was ridiculous.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

January 19, 2008 - Engine Goes Back Together & Timing Chains Installed

Well the weather outside was frightful....





But the garage was sooooo delightful.....





And since we've got no place to go....let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.....


Yes, the weather today was a little bit $hitty to say the least, -12C outside, but it was a balmy 20 degrees in the garage which made for perfect VR-T build conditions.

Graeme came over again to help out, pulling some donuts and drifts on the road in the snow in the miata...god i want one on snowy days.


I started by removing the lower intake manifold runners, along with the other bits and pieces of the secondary air injection system. Measured the hole up for a frost plug which I will look for next week sometime. Taped up the intake ports into the head and removed the serpentine belt tensioner and the hoist point on the other side, which left the block all naked.









Next using the Permatex copper gasket spray sealant I did 3 even coats on both sides of the two head gaskets that would be used to sandwich the headspacer. If you do this on your vehicle DO NOT SPRAY THE BLOCK, HEAD OR SPACER...just do the gaskets evenly on both sides.




While they tacked up nicely we took the lower timing chain cover and carefully with a flat head screwdriver removed the old rear main seal. If you are doing your chains this is a good thing to do while you are in there. To install the new one we simply lined it up, lubed up the inside ring of the cover with some oil, put a piece of wood over it and tapped it carefully into place with a mallet. Very easy to install.





I then installed the ARP headbolts and snugged them down by hand.
We then began installing the lower timing chains, I was told it's easier to installed the lower chains and the cover, and then put the gaskets and headspacer on as you have the full shape of the gasket then layed down. We later found it was not this simple as you cannot line up the chains without the head on and check the timing properly, so we only made it half way before putting the head on.

First we installed the lower chain guide.





And then installed the lower chain. When doing this you must be sure to first make sure the block is at TDC, which is should be if you haven't moved it. Even if you are sure it hasn't moved you can never check the timing too many times. To do this you must line up the timing marks on the lower chain sprocket. There is a tooth that is missing half of the tooth on purpose and you must line that up with the little line on the inner wall of the block. You must then line up the upper cog arrow on the spline at either the 6 o'clock or 12 o'clock positions. It is very helpful to have another set of hands for this to hold the upper gear on its mount so you can move it without bolting it up. Once the lower chains was on and timing was double checked we loosely tightend the upper gear bolt into place so the gear wouldn't fall off.






Next I cleaned off the block and head surfaces again and gave them a wipe down to insure there was no grease that was on the contact surfaces for the gaskets.
We then layed the first gasket, and then the headspacer carefully. Again its nice to have a second set of hands to guide the gaskets down. They like to catch on the ARP headbolt threads on the way down.




Then the second gasket was lowered into place




And then the head was finally lowered into place.







We then lay the already oiled ARP headbolt washers on top of all of the bolts (20 in total)





We then by hand loosely put into place all of the ARP headbolts, and then after a quick trip to the store to pick up a torque wrench cause i didn't realize the one I had wasn't big enough, we torqued it all down following the ARP torque specs and the Bentley torquing order.






We then began to assemble the upper timing guide. We later found out its easier to not put in the top of the two bolts and to leave it free until the chain is actually in place and looped over the two cam gears. Its very difficult to try and fit the chain between the guide and the gear. We also installed the upper tensioner (the white bit). Don't pull out the U-ring on it until the chain is in place. The U-ring holds the tension in the tensioner and allows easy install of the tensioner and chain.





We then assembled the top chain. For some reason it came with a link detached so we had to assemble it into a loop. nothing a slit tap with the hammer on the floor while a small socket protected the joints of the chain couldn't solve.






We then installed the upper chain, again double checking the timing marks on the intermediate gear. The outer intermediate gear attaches to the inner intermediate gear only one way, but it is important to insure you dont move the lower chain to get the two to fit together.






We then took some Permatex Sensor Safe High Temp Gasket Maker which we purchased earlier in the day and went to work installing the chain covers.





We laid a bead of the gasket sealer around the contact points on the block. Before doing this I had cleaned up the seal areas with brake cleaner and 3M scuff pad on both the covers and the block







We first did the lower one, being careful to line up the rear main seal over the flange properly. We used the plastic guide to position it properly and it worked quite well. Then used a mallet to lightly tap it all into place and snug up.






We then did the same with the top chain cover, this time applying it to the cover itself as the guide we were using said it was much easier to.








We then attached the top cover to the block, again tapping to make sure it was sealed up all the way round.





We then began installing all of the cover bolts, only doing them part way as you are supposed to let the gasket maker set for an hour before torquing them down all the way. This is when it pays to have labelled everything properly when you took it off as all i had to dow as sift through the box to find the correct bags.








Slowly the engine was beginning to once again look like a VR.







Next I installed the chain tensioner bolt.





To do this I filled a clean yoghurt container with about 4" of oil and put the bolt in the oil.









After letting it sit for a minute i put my hand in the container, stood the bolt upright and pushed down on it. This compresses the bolt and pushes the air out of its inner part. Then when you release the bolt it expands drawing in the oil.
I then installed it onto the back of the head and torqued it into place.




I then removed the cam locking plate and put the valve cover on. Allowing the VR to return to its original state.







Again huge thanks to Graeme

[GINCH]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Wow!! Well done fellas. You both have a huge set

God I hope all works out well with this! I would never have the guts or the know how to do this!

Cheers
Derek

[Vulcan]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

My you need an engine stand....my back is sore just looking at the photos.

[Stonewall]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Another informative session in VR6 engine repair. Might I suggest picking up one of these nice "crack pipes" http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/c...category_id=60

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

My you need an engine stand....my back is sore just looking at the photos.

we've got one. The VR6 without the timing chains attached doesn't bolt up to one very nicely with just the block. It's offset way to the right and is very off balance without a custom mount plate. it will most likely go up into the stand tomorrow now that I can mount it on sideways.

I have a desk chair i use and its actually the perfect height. Everything is at the right height and you are off your feet so the back doesn't get sore. Works well.

i need the engine up now to do the oilpan

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

Another informative session in VR6 engine repair. Might I suggest picking up one of these nice "crack pipes" http://www.gruvenparts.com/website/c...category_id=60

I'm replacing with a brand new OEM one. I debated going billet and decided against it. The OEM ones are good for 100,000km's and as long as you are smart about how you handle them they are fine. But yes i did look long and hard into it.

[Stonewall]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

What is the price on the OEM one? If they are close the billet should be a lot better.

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

its like $10 for OEM

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

[ari gold] BOOM! [/ari gold]

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

January 21, 2008

Cleaning of the Engine


Began cleaning the engine today as planned, and to quiet down the peanut gallery. Retrofitted my laundry sink that was busted into a parts washer so I could really scrub away some of the crap.


Cleaned up the Valve Cover; it will be getting a second cleaning but I wanted to see how far along I could get it:




The tranny mount was completely black. Gave it a douche with some SuperClean and presto:






Cleaned up the starter by hand making sure not to get water into the inside or near the electrical:


Before:




After:







My MMP Deka battery tray and the PS reservoir were filthy




After:










I then pulled off the ol crackpipe, o-ring going into the block doesn't look like it had much life left:












That opened up this can of smashed @ssholes of a mess from the leaky T-Stat housing where it bolted up to the block and was leaking.





Gave it some love:






I then undid the 3 13mm bolts holding on the oil filter housing and removed it to expose more mess behind it on the block:










And the mess that was the oil filter housing itself:






After a lot of superclean and some scrubbing with the toothbrush I acheived the following results:









Now question for the peanut gallery who were going on about blowing out the oil lines with air. I have removed the filter housing as you can see above and there are two holes in the block exposed. Which hole do I want to be pushing air through so that any crap in the block makes its way down into the oil pan. (I have still yet to change out the pan and gasket so don't even mention that part yet). I can if need be undo the oil line from the block to the oil cooler but I don't know if this is needed or not to do what you guys were talking about. Please comment.


More cleaning to come later in the week, along with new T-stat housing, new waterpipe, and some other replacement parts.

Before anyone asks; NO I will not be repainting the block entirely. I don't have the resources to do this in house and that is why it was not/will not be done. I am doing my best however to clean everything up nicely. ***** and moan about not doing it right blah blah blah....I simply don't have the resources or the ability to do it. End of story.


and yes...I like Fresca

[DeanerF]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

lookin good andrew

do you know what oilcooler setup your using yet?

[RONDAL]

Re: Screw weight saving....just add more HP (Project Turbo Smurf)

mocal 19 bar core with a thermostatic sandwich plate and some steel braided lines.