2013 Bikes

[RONDAL]

Re: 2013 Bikes

if you're out during that weekend then lets certainly meet up.

also meyers, dropper posts are for enduro and XC bikes, not DH rigs. Unless you're racing at pietermaritzberg WC race whcih is pretty much an enduro course.
lose the post you weenie

[turbomeyers]

Re: 2013 Bikes

I am getting it for my trail bike but i am gunna try it on my dh .

[turbomeyers]

Re: 2013 Bikes

I orderd my new springs for my flatline . (apperently i am still at about the max for size on these things) and i need new tires . What do you run andrew ?

[RONDAL]

Re: 2013 Bikes

when you say new springs i assume you're talking about for rear shock?
You need to set this up properly as even the best bike in the world will feel like utter **** if you dont set up the suspension properly.
The biggest key is ensuring you get the sag right first. If you dont get that right, everything else is just going to be further off.

To Measure Sag On A Rear Shock
Measurement #1
1.Before sitting on the bicycle, measure and record the distance from the center of one shock mounting bolt to the center of the other shock mounting bolt. This is known as the "eye-to-eye" measurement.
Air shocks have an o-ring on the shock body. The o-ring should be pushed up against the scraper lip of the air sleeve without the rider on the bike. If there is no o-ring, use the "eye-to-eye" method.
Measurement #2
2.Sit on the bicycle in a normal riding position. Weight should be evenly distributed on the saddle, handlebars and pedals. Being properly outfitted in your typical riding gear is also highly recommended, as even a slight deviation in total weight can make a difference. It may be necessary to hold yourself up against a wall or post to steady yourself. Do not bounce on the pedals or saddle.
3.Have an assistant measure and record the eye-to-eye distance. For an air shock, dismount the bicycle and measure from the scraper lip to the o-ring.
4.Subtract Measurement #2 from Measurement #1. The difference is the measurement called Sag.

You should get something like this:
Measurement #1 – Measurement #2 = Sag
(e.g., 7.875 – 7.275 = 0.600)

5.Consult the air or coil springs settings table in the shock's respective section in the owner's manual. If the sag specification is not in compliance, follow the instructions in Setting Sag in the shock's respective section in the owner's manual.

Typically for DH riding you want to run something around 25-30% sag, XC 15-20%ish.
If you've got too light of a spring on the rear, you're going to have too much sag. Then you'll want to buy a new spring for the rear shock. If the sag is fine with the spring weight you've got there, no need. STIFFER/HEAVIER DOES NOT EQUAL BETTER!

Next up set pre-load on the spring (by spinning it)
PRELOAD: Used for fine tuning sag, will also slightly stiffen up your shock throughout its travel.

Spring rate and spring preload should be chosen to give you the correct desired sag, damping should/is used to control the compression from there on. (commonly, frames have tuned & progressive leverage rates too in order to assist the shock in resisting bottoming out/wallowing. Although a linear type leverage rate can effectively be used with a longer stroke and/or higher oil volume shock (eg. Foes) so damping controls all the movement including ramp-up, IMO this method is best when done properly...)

Next you want to check the air pressure in the shock. See the manual for your specific shock to determine what it should be around. You'll need a shock pump for this.
RESERVOIR PRESSURE & VOLUME ADJUSTMENTS: Many shocks now ditch nitrogen filled reservoirs in exchange for adjustable pressure air reservoirs. Changing the air pressure has a duel effect of altering the shocks preload and progressivity together, it will also change any pedal platform (aka 'Propedal') threshold too. This duel effect is because air has a progressive spring rate [imagine a curve on a graph getting steeper]. For example; increasing the air pressure in a reservoir will move the start point of your shocks progressiveness further towards the steeper gradient on the spring-rate graph, increasing your initial spring-rate [preload] and making it ramp-up quicker through the shocks travel [more progressive]... and visa versa for decreasing pressure.

Air volume can be adjusted mechanically on shock reservoirs and by altering oil level [within limits] in forks with open-bath damping, again, it adjusts the progressiveness of the suspension - a smaller volume ramps-up quicker [bottoms out less], a larger volume is more linear [uses more travel more often]. Details about balancing shock reservoir pressure and volume together can be found a few posts further down...



Next up you set damping....

Damping...
NOTE: common speed sensitive damping adjustments effect the amount of resistance to movement by restricting oil flow, not the speed or speed range at which the resistance takes effect. - a factory re-tune would be required for the latter.

___
LO-SPEED COMPRESSION: REDUCES rider induced inputs by restricting initial oil flow.

Low speed damping when set up correctly for DH riding may feel awful when doing 'the car park test', as, if you are riding dh, even braking will cause a faster compression than you pushing the fork down, the speed at which low-speed damping restriction occurs will mostly effect the influence on the suspension of your body movements on the bike, cornering compression and pedal bob/brake dive, but won't effect higher speed compressions like stutter bumps as much [dependent on the products low-speed damping range and gradient of effect].

You will find your best setup after a few trial-and-error runs/rides, the best setting should give you the minimum small bump compliance you are happy with so as to help the fork remain extended as much as possible - this reduces the inertia your damping system has to control and leaves you with more travel for bigger impacts.

___
HI-SPEED COMPRESSION: Adds extra resistance to the forks motion when it compresses quickly to help avoid harsh bottom out.

High speed damping should not be set up around the car park, to set it up will rely on feedback from a travel indicator (lil rubber ring on stanchion) at the end of a run/impact.

It should be tuned to give 'most' [rider preference dictates amount] travel from the BIGGER impacts you'll be hitting; bottom out resistance deals with the final remaining compression (except on some shocks where 'bottom-out adjustment' adjusts reservoir volume [spring rate ramp-up]) - you should get MAX travel (aka: bottom out) on the BIGGEST impacts you encounter.

BOTTOM OUT RESISTANCE: Allows high speed damping to be used more 'sparingly'.

Bottom-out resistance is generally only internally or non adjustable if included on forks, most shocks use an elastomer bump-stop for this purpose, it effects the very late compression spring rate curve, or resistance if a hydraulic type is used - it usually isn't affected by compression speed and will always take its effect when the fork reaches near-full compression (position sensitive). - This feature is used as the last resort to stop a harsh bottom-out thud on the biggest hits you encounter, the same way a negative travel spring stops final extension top-out.

Some shocks label the reservoir volume adjustment as 'bottom out resistance', this is partially true, but more accurately this type of adjustment changes the progressiveness of the shock throughout its travel... which ultimately will affect bottom out.



Next you do rebound...

REBOUND: Rebound force, unlike compression forces, are governed by only one thing - spring pressure. Its best not to view rebound damping as 'how fast your fork extends', but how much resistance to your fork extending there is. Rebound damping can also be used to help maintain bump absorption even when the fork is compressed by effectively reducing the amount of return [opposing] force the spring can apply, this aspect of rebound damping can be further explored with rebound systems that feature adjustable High and Low speed rebound damping.

The setting of rebound damping is largely rider preferential, but it should be set within the boundaries of 'packing up over stutter bumps' and 'kicking the wheel out when cornering'.

Rebound damping should generally be set up to give the fastest possible rebound speed without allowing the wheel to kick out or causing the shock to extend 'too harshly' [top-out]. The reason for this is so that the wheel will always try to return to maximum travel position as quickly as possible but in a controlled manner, thus helping to keep your tyres on the ground and keeping you higher up in the softer part of your travel so you have better stutter bump absorption.

Rebound settings between the front and back of your bike can also be correlated to control the tilt characteristic of your bike when launching off jumps, depending on rider weight distribution, e.g. faster rebound at the back can be used help to pitch your bike forward when going airborne so as to help you land parallel with the transition.

You may also want to increase your rebound damping if you have a frame that suffers from significant pedal-bob so the back end will 'pack down' more under pedalling giving you a firmer, less bouncy shock when you're cranking it - doing this can increase pedalling efficiency in nearly all bikes, possibly at the expense of a more ideal 'terrain mapping' or controlled rebound setting though.

You may also find increasing your rebound damping at the front, if your bike has relaxed geometry, may help with cornering as your weight tends to be further over the back if you have a slack head-angle - increasing the damping may help stop your front wheel 'kicking out' and losing grip when you're lent over in corners.




For the front Fox40 its pretty much the same.
You'll want to see what spring is in the fork, get a socket for the top of the left leg, undo the top scap (carefully ensuring you dont strip it) and see what color it is. Blue is their medium one, green is heavier, purple is lighter. I run green, i'm 205lbs and i BANG through stuff. You might want to move to green or just stick with blue.
Go through the same steps as above and check the sag to see if you'll need a heavier weight spring.

[RONDAL]

Re: 2013 Bikes

As for tires I run 2.3" minions or 2.1" minions depending on where i'm riding.
I also swap back and forth between their 42 compound and their 60A compound. 42 is extremely soft and wears out very quick, the 60A is a little stronger.
I can burn through a 42 on the rear in a week of riding, especially at places like kicking horse or mt7 where its shale and very sharp rock. it literally will cut the tread right off. The 60A lasts considerably longer and you likely could get a full season out of it. Think of 42 compound like running R compound tires. You really need to be pushing hard to get the full benefit out of them, and unless you're on the edge they wont give you any additional benefit than the 60A.

My setup I typically run a 42 up front always, and a 60A in the rear. Though I currently have 3C compound front and rear as I got them on super duper cheap sale. The 3C compound is just a mixture of the 42 and the 60 in a single tire.

I've got a front minion you can have for $40, i ordered a few too many.

[bonfire]

Re: 2013 Bikes

You bought my roommates flatline. That is a hell of a coincidence.

Bikes are fun.

[liquid]

Re: 2013 Bikes

So I'm getting back into mtn biking after a decade removed.... and need a new bike (full suspension). Any thoughts on Ghost bikes?

I'm looking for a good x-country and all mountain bike - preferably as light as possible.

My

[bonfire]

Re: 2013 Bikes

2013 Rocky Mountain Altitude.

[turbomeyers]

Re: 2013 Bikes

or an element