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I was in UluWatu Bali, In January --- seriously hairy 8-10 ft left hander.
Few dudes out there owning it, and I couldn't imagine going down early, and getting cheese grated by the coral that was only a couple feet under the surface in the runout.
Open ocean 30 footers, I cannot even fathom. Sick vid.
I can't imagine crashing on one of these big waves. If you go down, you are automatically 30ft underwater. In heavily airated water following the wave, therefor minimal bouyancy, not mention the break causing these huge waves. Plus thing of how fast these waves are rolling, getting hit by one would be like a train.
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