BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

[RONDAL]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

rear seats are ~40lbs and the front are easily that each. swapping to some lightweight seats, and ditching the spare will save you a bunch of weight. Firewall material has gotta be next to nothing weight wise, but in terms of structural rigidity would play a big roll.

I would hope you're going with a strut bar at the very least to tie the front end back up again

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

Agreed, build it to where you want it. In for the build pics, following here and AZ

thanks, im also following your build! although the mods havent updated my account in forever so i cant post on it.

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

rear seats are ~40lbs and the front are easily that each. swapping to some lightweight seats, and ditching the spare will save you a bunch of weight. Firewall material has gotta be next to nothing weight wise, but in terms of structural rigidity would play a big roll.

I would hope you're going with a strut bar at the very least to tie the front end back up again

If you look behind your guys secondary firewall there is a 1/4 brace that gives to top end rigidity and not the actual firewall. I debated it too, but decided to do it and start with un-necessary front end weight on my car. I wonder whats next???? Aluminum uprights?

[The_Jerbel]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

It does have an OEM strut brace, but you will give up a bit of rigidity by cutting out the firewall. You may not want to leave it like that if you're running the car auto-x, or something, but it should be fine for the drag strip, etc.

[RONDAL]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

here's a hypothetical question i dont have the answer to; what would an insurer say to an owner that modifies his firewall if involved in a front end accident that is then deemed to write the car off?
i know for our cars now being so cheap its not AS big an issue, but if you were to do something like that on a newer car i could see it getting interesting with insurance

[MmmBoost]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

2 comments......

The fish-eye makes my brain hurt. Ditch it for the build and get a proper rectilinear lens.

#2.......cutting out your firewall to save weight is nearly one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of for "saving weight"

[R-Audi]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

One other thing to add... if you do plan on doing any 1/4 mile etc you will need a host of other items to go along with a battery relocation to pass safety.

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

It does have an OEM strut brace, but you will give up a bit of rigidity by cutting out the firewall. You may not want to leave it like that if you're running the car auto-x, or something, but it should be fine for the drag strip, etc.

Hey Jerbel, i need to tap your extensive knowledge of these cars with a couple questions.

1. How long should i keep my boost tube for my new gauge. and how much does the elevation affect the vacuum and boost here?

2. And do you typically boost test just the intake system at 20psi?

thanks in advance, im just getting a grip before it all comes together!

[R_Ethug]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

boot gauge taping from FPR.. i dunno mine is like 4feet maybe.. off the FPR through the firewall through the ECU box and down in up and around

pressure testing.. 15PSI is plenty.. even 10 PSI will expose leaks

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

2 comments......

The fish-eye makes my brain hurt. Ditch it for the build and get a proper rectilinear lens.

#2.......cutting out your firewall to save weight is nearly one of the most ridiculous things I've ever heard of for "saving weight"

haha Better photos coming. anddddddddd if you met me, you would also think im as ridiculous as my actions. And like i said, im starting with all the little things and working my way up.... i mean down

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

Nice! I've made a device that hopefully will work like a charm with my contracting compressor cant wait to use it.

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

One other thing to add... if you do plan on doing any 1/4 mile etc you will need a host of other items to go along with a battery relocation to pass safety.

yeah true. where could i take a look at those here, website, or something?

[BlakMarketClash]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

Parts to acquire: One bumper alignment bolt, one wiperblade nut, and some deodorant.

Now for the timing, I find the approximate bentley manual way the best for me. Plus, it takes like ten minutes aswell as does a good job of keeping everything in pin point timing.

After i replaced the seals in the heads i cleaned the front of the block up a bit which was surprisingly clean already and installed the cam lock bar.



I then installed two 'saftey nets' of tiewraps and rope to insure nothing will fall off.



I also installed the crank lock pin which i guess is a mystery in location to some, but, HERE IT IS right underneath the driverside motor mount bracket. This will hold the crank in perfect TDC for me.



I left the cam-pulleys off slightly so i can spin them when i tension the belt for even tension. (the cam bar works by connecting to the end of the camshafts onto two tabs which go in one way)



The cambolt is just threaded in half way so it doesn't stiffen up the pulleys.



I then could start to prime the tensioner before i pull the pin and that tenses the belt, and spins the pulleys into good positions.



Then bottom of the wrench is pulled into the snub mount bracket



The belt is now tense and i can pull the pin and tighten the pulleys



Got all the torque specs written on that piece of paper by my feet.




I sealed the valve covers and put on my new spider assembly. Plus i put the fuel rail on with the new injectors.

[The_Jerbel]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

Hey Jerbel, i need to tap your extensive knowledge of these cars with a couple questions.

1. How long should i keep my boost tube for my new gauge. and how much does the elevation affect the vacuum and boost here?

2. And do you typically boost test just the intake system at 20psi?

thanks in advance, im just getting a grip before it all comes together!

No problem.

1. Keep it as long as you can until you're finishing up the installation. I would leave it at least 5-6 feet long if you can. When you're doing the finishing touches you can trim to length. Better too long than too short

2. You should boost leak test the intake system to whatever pressure you plan on running. If you are going to run 20 psi, then test to 20. If you're planning on 25psi, then go to 25. Many leaks don't manifest themselves until you get into the higher pressures while leak testing.

[Natty54]

Re: BlakMarketClash's TiAL S605 Thread

sweet looks good!

have you done any mods to the 928?